Monday, November 28, 2011

Virginia by bike was not as expected...

Today, Monday Nov. 28, 2011

First off, we were not able to rent a car to drive to Powhatan, VA for Thanksgiving Dinner at Norwood.
We needed a major CC or Car insurance with the use of a debit card in order to rent.
So... we pedaled on Thanksgiving Day to Whitesburg, KY. Not a long trek but we were looking for an easy ride with it being a holiday and all.
The following day we rode again looking to pass the KY border into VA. we headed north on 115 towards Jenkins, KY and turned east on the 23 towards VA. We crossed the Payne Gap towards Pound, VA on the SHOULDER LESS Hwy of 23 finally ending up in Wise, VA where we were able to get a hotel room at the Best Western where the manager gave a great deal on a $80 room for $55. Thank you Quinn!!
Please keep in mind that the route we had been taking since Hazard, KY has been off route (the ACA route across the Trans-Am). We were honked at more in VA than all the other state before. There is a good reason to stay on the route if not just for the purpose of not getting honked or yelled at.
While in Wise, we were contacted by a warmshower couple in Lebanon, VA who we had requested a warmshower from a couple days before. John and Patty Brenner are a very friendly couple who opened their home to us as if we were one of their children. We had so much fun getting to know the two of them in there cute town of Lebanon. Thank you John and Patty! We had a great time!!
After getting directions from John on the best way to return to the Trans-Am, we set off with Hayters Gap in our near future. Once we connected to Hwy 80, we back on route and on our way to Damascus, VA.
Hayters Gap, or "Haters Gap" was not that bad at all to Vesper and I. We felt like we had done worse working our way into Wise, VA than that. Some say it is harder going the other direction, which from looking at the map, I can agree.
We arrived in Damascus around 5pm and we know that the sun would be setting soon, so we started looking for a place to sleep. After watching the weather all day long, we decided that the best idea was to find indoor shelter in case it was to rain. For $10/person, we had a bunk house all to ourselves and a hot shower as well. The night was very warm around 61deg. and very calm. Vesper couldn't sleep due to my snoring and Yoshi's grooming, not to mention a nagging feeling that something was about to happen in the world of great proportions. I woke this morning with swollen fingers and sore muscles. I guess the "Haters" Gap was more than I had previously perceived. It wasn't raining, was still warm, but the dark clouds were really starting to move in. It was a gamble, but we decided to take a day off to let the rain pass before we moved on.
It still has not started to rain.
We are looking forward to getting to Norwood soon so we may have our own special Thanksgiving on the plantation.

Thanks for Reading,
WOS and Vesper
 

Monday, November 21, 2011

Appalachians in KY

Monday 11/21/11 Hazard, KY

We left Berea on a Saturday when the weather was good, sunny and DRY.
We pedaled long and hard to make it to Booneville where we knew of a Church that was kind to cyclists.
What we didn't know was that most of the cyclists camp outside in the back.
We however were able to talk the pastor into allowing us to sleep inside where there were gas heaters and a bathroom.
After waking up around 6:30am to be out of the church by 8, we went to the local cafe where we had coffee and biscuits and gravy. The biscuits came on the plate with a bowl of the gravy next to it.
We had never seen B&G served in this manor. 1st, there wasn't any sausage in the gravy! Even the Yankees in the north put sausage in the gravy.
As we set off for a grueling day of climbing the Appalachians, the trailer broke and Vesper had to rig it so that it will stay connected to the bike. All was good as we set off. Not 30 minutes into our ride, it began to rain and rain hard. we were soaked in 5 minutes.
We were faced with tackling 3 very large hills on our way towards Hazard. We were excited to get to Hazard because we knew that we had a warm place to retreat to when we got there.
The three hills were massive, but Vesper felt as if he was in the tour de France! Some kids that were playing outside were cheering him on and yelling about the cute dog he was pulling. Also, someone in a truck shoot silly string at him as the drove by with a "WooHoo"
The hills were fun for him but torture for me.
When we finally made it to Hazard, our CouchSurffer host that we had lined up the following day had not contacted us yet. It was getting dark and we were sitting at a McDonalds trying to use the "free" wi-fi for better reception. We decided to try to contact another possible host here in Hazard from couchsurffers.org.
Stephen and Ellen with an emergency couch plea.
They responded and were gracious enough to have us for the night.
Stephen was good enough to give us a ride to Enterprise so that we may rent a car and head towards Powhatan, VA to the Noorwood Plantation.
http://norwoodplantation.com/
We will be leaving today to spend Thanksgiving with my cousins Ted and Connie Harris as well as Kennon.
We look forward to visiting with the VA Kennons and spending some time in history.

We will come back to the Appalachians to finish out trek across the USA to D.C. after Thanksgiving.

Happy thanksgiving to all that follow our blog!
Thanks for reading,
WOS and Vesper

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

All the way to Berea, KY

Tuesday, 11-15-11
Kentucky had not changed much since I graduated from WKU in 2003, but then again it has.
I am seeing it from a new perspective of being on a bicycle as a tourist.
From a cyclists point of view, KY is not that bad as far as the vehicular traffic. The drivers are more respectful than the other state drivers in that they are more likely to slow down and give you enough room when they pass.
KY has its downs as well, in that there are tons of HILLS!!!
We have been told over and over again that the APPS are harder than the Rockies. How can this be? The Rockies reach higher altitudes, in the 9,000-11,000ft. when the Appalachians only reach about 4,000ft.
The difference I was told is the grade in which the roads are. where the Rockies were higher, they had a smaller gradual grade. The Apps have extremely steep grades for a shorter distance.
I guess it is all based on which you prefer.

After our stay with Rich and Mare who so very graciously dropped us off in KY at the hostel in Sebree.
The First Baptist Church is a cyclist mainstay. there we met Katie, a grandmother who was cycling the Trans Am on her own for the first time.
The church made dinner, our own room as well as a hot shower.
The following day, we continued through KY following the Trans Am with the ACA map.
The Falls of Rough at the Airport was our next camping destination. 80 miles we cycled even in the night.
We "Air Camped" there at the Airport in 27deg. temps.
Ready to head on down the road when once again, Vesper woke with a flat tire.
We were trying to find a warm shower for our next destination after the cold night stay and were willing to cycle out of our way for just that reason.
We were planning to go to Elizabethtown when our host suggested that we visit Leitchfield because they had a bike shop.
We contacted the owner of Embry's Bike Shop where Rick suggested that we cycle off the ACA trail to his place where he would not only give our bikes a tune up, but would put us up for the night in his home.
After traveling a short 18 miles, we arrived in Leitchfield, KY at the bike shop after long up and downs south.
Joyce had cooked a beef stew that was so tender and full of flavor. She also cooked some cornbread and a Lemon Bunt Cake. We were well stuffed and ready for bed. We also turned Rick Embry onto the Warmshowers.org website for touring as a guest as well as hosting other cyclists like they did us.
Thank you for the help and generosity you both had shown us.
The following day, we headed towards Howardstown about 50 miles away where there would be a campsite for us to rest. We stayed at the Larue County Park under an awning for shelter from the weather. A cold front was headed our way, and the wind let us know!!
All night the wind whipped and blew the tent as if a tornado was above us.
The following day we headed east again pushing through the wind on towards Bardstown where we stayed at the "My Old Kentucky Home State Park" in our tent once again.
We continued east the next morning hoping to find shelter knowing that it was only a matter of time before we got rained on. We decided to head towards Danville because they had a campground as well as it having the last known bike shop until we were over the Appalachians. As we were headed south on 127, Mark Morgan stopped and offered us a place to stay at his home there in Danville. seeing as how we were not going to make it to Berea, we agreed to his offer and headed to his home.
Mark and Joni were very nice and giving as were all of our angels along the way. They took us out to dinner and even introduced us to there son Daniel who lived there in Danville.
Joni is a quilter who makes very unique quilts that anyone would love to have across their bed.
Mark is a lawyer who is progressive and with the times. They both cycle and lead healthy lives.
We are blessed to have met them.
After a restful and warm nights sleep, we left Danville on our way to Berea where we had a warmshower lined up. The only problem is that it was raining. So with strange looks from all of Kentucky, we peddled on in the rain all day long until we finally reached Berea.
In Berea we met our warmshower connection Paige. We peddled through hill upon hill to her home about 3 miles out of town. We were greeted by her dogs and later her family.
Now with our stomachs filled with country ham, we will go to sleep and awake fresh and new for the Appalachians.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Illinois is coming close to one of the Favorites

As written in the post before, we have had a good experience with Illinois.
We left Chester on our way towards Carbondale where we were to pick up the Bike centennial.
We left thinking instead of hwy 3, we would take the alt. route on the 150.
This route on a Saturday did not look all that much safer once we arrived at a huge hill where there wasn't any shoulder and the traffic was very busy.
We turned around and decided to ask some of the locals the best way to make it to Carbondale. We were given a BACK ROAD way.
We were OK with this because there wasn't hardly any traffic, but the hills were steep and long.
Once we made it to Carbondale where we had set up a warmshower for that night, it was dark.
Joe was a young man who lived by himself and worked in a bike shop there in Carbondale.
He had been riding since he was young and cycled across the USA twice.
We gathered as much information from him as possible as well as cycling maps for the rest of our trip. We are of coarse going to mail them back to him when we reach our destination.
Thanks Joe!!

Sunday we headed out trying to follow the maps. I of coarse mess it up and we ride to far down hwy 51. We ended up riding some back roads to reach our destination of Tunnel Hills where we had another warmshowers waiting for us.

We finally make it to the Tunnel Hill Rd. where it would be another 8-10miles to get to their home. They offered a support vehicle so I called and asked if they could come and pick us up. Ann was glad to do just that and in no time we were at her home having dinner with her family.
Her daughter and son in law were visiting them before they left on their own adventure around the world. Sounds like fun to us!!!
After playing a couple rounds of Rummy, we went to bed to wake up to a wonderful breakfast of Banana Pancakes, Bacon and coffee.
THANK YOU ANN AND AL!
We wish Dustin and Theresa good luck on their travels.

Moving on towards Cave in the Rock our next destination.
I was better at reading the maps now and we were on the right path.
We had been riding for several hours and were going to make a turn when a man had stopped and asked us if we needed directions.
We asked which way to the next town of Eddyville.
He directed us and then asked if we needed anything for our ride and that his home was just up the road. we accepted and followed him.
Rich and MaryAnn live in a beautiful log cabin here in Southern Illinois.
Rich invited us to stay the night and we accepted in order to give our knees and muscles a rest from all of the S. Illinois hills we have been climbing.
After meeting all of the Pets: 4 dogs, 6 cats and 2 horses, we knew we would have a great time.
We all ate BBQ chicken, sweet potatoes, salad and beer. Mint Chocolate chip Ice Cream for desert. we were able to shower and sleep well on a comfortable bed.

The next day, Rich went golfing and we were able to visit with MaryAnn.
I was able to go ridding with her around the property on Eddie. Please see photo.
I had so much fun!! Ridding a horse instead of my bike was a nice break.
Eddie and Lilly we MaryAnn's two horses.

We are looking forward now and should be in Kentucky tomorrow.
We will miss our new friends here in Illinois. We will miss Rich and MaryAnn as well. HA, HA!
Just kidding, Thank you so much for showing us so much love!!

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Another state closer to VA

Missouri was different.

With the Missouri Katy Trail, we were able to ride smoothly without any large hills or cars to fight over the road. I do think that without the KT Trail, it would have taken us a lot longer to get to Illinois.

The last time that I posted we were in Mokane, MO.
We didn't get very far seeing as how we had a late start. We made it to Hermann, MO.
On the way, Vesper's tire lost air pressure so we stopped at Rhineland for some air.

The air compressor at all Conoco's are and have always been free, but at this particular Conoco, the air looked free and on, but the compressor just let all the air out of the low tire instead of blowing it up. So there we were stuck in a small town with one gas station that was closed on the weekends and a flat tire.

The owner of the bar next door told us that the owner of the gas station was greedy mean individual who turns off the air whenever he is not there. He offered to give us a ride to the nearest gas station so we may inflate our tire.

The next town we were to visit overnight was the cute town of Hermann. We were told that they were just finishing their Octoberfest celebration and that the City Park was a great place to camp.

Octoberfest was on its last leg, there were still kids partying there with groupings of tents.

As most people know, the St. Louis Cardinals won the World Series just the day before. There were a lot of chanting and songs with "We are the champions" being the main song to sing.

Hermann was cute city.

We continued on the KT to Marthasville where we were treated to Philly's Pizza.
After telling the owner's mother that we were cycling from Portland, OR on our way towards Washington, D.C. and were on a budget, she graciously offered anything on the menu for free.
After filling our bellies with there popular Philly's Meat pizza, we headed for the city park across the street to set up tent and get some rest once the birthday party that was going on there ended.
Some local kids were hanging out there at the park keeping us up with their loud laughter and screams as they played on the playground long after the park was closed. After making it clear to them that we were not happy with them, they still did not leave so we called the police.

We had a long day of riding the next day and needed to get some rest.
The next morning we continued east on the KT towards St. Charles.
When we made it to St. Charles, it was Halloween with tons of children in their costumes running about on sugar highs. We just wanted something to eat and a place to set up camp for the night.
However, even though there was a camping symbol not only on the KT Trail map for St. Charles but also a camping symbol on the kiosk for St. Charles on the KT, there was not a location for camping in the entire city. We decided the best place to find some more information was to go to the city Library.

After pedaling to the library, picking up the charger that I left in Columbia (thanks John for dropping it there for me), we were told that we couldn't use the computer with our paying $2 just because we were out of town. Needless to say, our research was done with my phone. We were able to find a campground in St. Peters, MO about 10 miles out of our way northwest.

It was getting dark as we headed towards the Lakeside Park campgrounds. We had to ride in the dark again with our lights on and made it to the park around 7pm. After loading up on Halloween candy there at the office, we set up camp in the primitive campgrounds for tents $10. We were able to take a cold shower before getting some sleep for the hard ride to get out of the greater St. Louis area.

We headed south and found ourselves on a biking trail. On this trail we met a couple of ladies who were interested in Yoshi and us in particular. We told them of our dilemma of finding a place to stay for that evening.

Vicki Ash offered to allow us to camp in her backyard in Kirkwood, which is a suburb of St. Louis.
We accepted and were given directions to her home that was south.
On our way we had to ride alongside quite a bit of traffic to arrive at her house.
We were about five minutes from her house on Manchester when Vesper was side swiped by a blacked out Ford Expedition! I was behind him and thought that the Ford came really close to me but it was even closer to Vesper. I saw it hit him on his right shoulder as well as hit the trailer Yoshi was in.
Vesper was so angry that he continued to chase the SUV down the hill as it was obviously on the run.
Our first hit and run. MO was kind to have the KT, but the drivers are not as kind.
Vicki fed us some warming Turkey noodle soup that evening as we fell right to sleep in our tent.
The next morning, we headed to the first Panera Bread store there on Manchester. After several cups of coffee as we waited for the local bike shop to open at 10am. We were able to get my tire patched after the flat that morning; Vesper bought some new toe straps for his pedal and some good direction on how to get out of the greater St. Louis area. Thank you

After leaving late again, we were not able to make it far seeing as how we were fighting rain all day long
We were headed to St. Francis Park 40 some odd miles away. On our way a guy in a car stopped Vesper and told him about a detour up ahead and gave him $40 dollars cash. The detour was dangerous due to low visibility and No SHOULDERS. On our way we stopped at Chick-Fil-A and got warmed up with free coffee and food. They also gave us 11 free coupons good for breakfast and dinner. Thanks Chick-Fil-A!

Traveling down Hwy 67 was gruesome. LOUD and the drivers were rude. We never made it to the park due to low visibility and we were soaked and cold! We stopped again. THIS TIME TO WARM UP AT A ROADSIDE CAFE. The locals said to try the town of Valle Mines and ask for the preacher there to let us stay at the church. We made it to the grocery store next to the church to warm up again. On our way next door to knock on the Preachers door, the lights went out! We went up there and rang the doorbell. Nobody answered! So...we went back to the store. We looked up there phone number in the yellow pages and called them. The preachers wife answered and said for us that there was no way they could help us. (Their house was bigger than the church beside it) The owner of the store, AL said we could stay at the apt. Upstairs from the convenience store he owned. We were so grateful to be dry and warm.

The next morning we set out to Chester, Illinois. This wasn't as easy as it seemed. The roads over to the HWY.61 were partially gravel, mud, and limestone and paved. Some hills were at least 18% grade. But this is beautiful country. We stopped at a small market to warm up and maybe get some dog food for Yoshi. This is where we met Debbie at her store in Bloomsdale, MO. The Wittus Store had a wood fired heater where we were able to let Yoshi inside for a warm up himself. Please see the picture we posted of the store.
Debbie was so nice; she made us Bologna sandwiches and gave us $10 for the ferry across the Mississippi into Illinois. Thank you Debbie.

We finally arrived in St. Genevieve, Missouri to take a ferry across the Mississippi River to Illinois. It was getting late and we only made it to Ellis Grove, Illinois. We asked for the preacher of that town to see if we could stay at the church for shelter. He and his wife greeted us outside of their house and said we could either stay on his couch or he could give us a ride to Chester and put us in a hotel. We took the ride to the hotel. This is by far, the best room we have had yet! Chester is also home to the creator of POPEYE the Sailor Man. Thanks Rev. William McCluskey for treating us to a warm meal and hotel! Oh, and he preyed for our safety and us. WOW! Amazing man.